Italian luxury fashion label Prada is facing significant backlash after unveiling a new line of sandals at Milan Fashion Week that closely resemble traditional Kolhapuri sandals from India. The open-toe braided pattern of the footwear sparked accusations of cultural appropriation, as the design closely mirrored the handcrafted Kolhapuri sandals made in the Indian states of Maharashtra and Karnataka. In response to the criticism, Prada has now acknowledged the Indian origins of its footwear line and emphasized its commitment to craftsmanship, heritage, and design traditions.
The controversy began when Prada showcased its new leather sandals at Milan Fashion Week last week. While the luxury brand referred to them simply as “leather footwear,” it failed to mention their inspiration from India’s Kolhapuri sandals, which have a deep cultural significance. The Kolhapuri sandals, named after the city of Kolhapur in Maharashtra, are known for their durability, comfort, and handmade quality, making them a staple in India’s hot and dry climate. The sandals have been crafted by skilled artisans for centuries, with their roots dating back to the 12th century.
Once the sandals were unveiled, many in India quickly recognized the resemblance to the Kolhapuri sandals, which led to a growing outcry over the lack of acknowledgment of the traditional artisans who have preserved the heritage of the design. Prada, a global fashion giant, was accused of appropriating the cultural and intellectual property of Indian artisans without crediting them. The Kolhapuri sandals were awarded the Geographical Indication (GI) status by the Indian government in 2019, a recognition that identifies products as originating from a specific region, and serves as a mark of authenticity. This makes the controversy surrounding Prada’s design particularly sensitive, as the GI tag provides legal protection to traditional products and ensures that their unique cultural significance is preserved.
In the wake of the backlash, Prada issued a statement to the BBC acknowledging the connection between their new footwear line and India’s traditional Kolhapuri sandals. A Prada spokesperson stated that the company “has always celebrated craftsmanship, heritage, and design traditions” and emphasized that the brand was in contact with the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry & Agriculture to discuss the issue. The spokesperson also noted that Prada was open to dialogue with local Indian artisans to explore meaningful exchange and ensure that the contributions of these artisans were recognized. The company has expressed a willingness to work with Indian communities in the future, and further discussions are expected to take place regarding the issue.
The controversy gained further attention when it was revealed that the chief of the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry & Agriculture had written a letter to Prada, urging the brand to acknowledge the artisans behind the Kolhapuri sandals. The letter pointed out that the design had been commercialized without recognizing the hard work of the leather workers in Kolhapur. Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada’s head of Corporate Social Responsibility, responded to the letter by stating that the sandals were still in the “early stage of design,” according to Reuters. Bertelli also mentioned that the company was open to having a dialogue with local artisans and had plans to arrange meetings to address the concerns raised by the chamber.
The Kolhapuri sandal holds immense significance in India, not just for its practicality, but for its historical and cultural importance. Handcrafted by skilled leather workers in Kolhapur, these sandals have been passed down through generations. The artistry and craftsmanship involved in making each pair of Kolhapuri sandals are revered in the region, with artisans spending hours meticulously crafting the sandals from high-quality leather, using traditional methods. The sandals are known for their sturdy construction and are designed to withstand the harsh weather conditions of India’s hot climate.
Despite the cultural pride associated with the Kolhapuri sandal, the controversy surrounding Prada’s design has brought to light the issue of fair compensation for artisans. While Kolhapuri sandals are sold for a few hundred rupees in India, Prada’s premium pricing, with sandals reportedly retailing between £600 to £1,000 in the UK, has raised concerns among locals who feel that they are not being fairly compensated for their labor. Local artisans, who often struggle to make a living wage, are disheartened to see their work being commercialized by global luxury brands without receiving recognition or financial benefit.
Prabha Satpute, a Kolhapuri artisan, expressed her frustration by saying, “These sandals are made with the hard work of leather workers in Kolhapur. They should be named after Kolhapur. Don’t take advantage of others’ labor.” Her sentiments reflect the frustration of many artisans who feel that their contributions to the design and cultural legacy of the Kolhapuri sandal are being exploited by powerful global companies.
Industrialist Harsh Goenka also voiced his concerns about the disparity between the low wages earned by local artisans and the hefty profits made by global brands. “They lose, while global brands cash in on our culture,” Goenka said. His comments highlight the broader issue of cultural exploitation in the fashion industry, where traditional designs are often appropriated by large companies without providing adequate compensation or recognition to the communities that created them.
While many have expressed disappointment over the commercialized use of Kolhapuri sandals, some in Kolhapur have found a silver lining in the controversy. “Artisans are happy that someone is recognizing their work,” said Kolhapur-based businessman Dileep More. For some, the global attention surrounding Kolhapuri sandals has brought a sense of pride, as it highlights the skill and craftsmanship of the artisans behind the iconic design.
This controversy is not the first time a global fashion brand has been accused of appropriating Indian cultural products without acknowledgment. In May 2025, Gucci faced backlash for referring to a sari worn by Bollywood star Alia Bhatt as a gown, and earlier in the same month, a TikTok trend was criticized for referring to the dupatta, a traditional South Asian scarf, as a Scandinavian scarf. These instances have sparked broader conversations about cultural appropriation in the fashion industry and the need for greater respect and recognition of traditional crafts and designs.
The incident involving Prada serves as a reminder of the importance of cultural sensitivity and the need for brands to acknowledge and respect the origins of the designs they draw inspiration from. While Prada has taken steps to address the controversy by engaging with local artisans and acknowledging the Indian roots of their design, it remains to be seen what further actions the company will take to rectify the situation and ensure fair recognition and compensation for the Kolhapuri sandal artisans.
As the fashion industry continues to evolve, it is crucial for brands to approach traditional designs with respect and to recognize the value of the craftsmanship that goes into creating these cultural treasures. Moving forward, it is essential that companies like Prada work closely with local artisans to ensure that their work is valued and that they are compensated fairly for their contributions to the global fashion landscape. Through dialogue, collaboration, and mutual respect, the industry can move toward a more equitable and culturally sensitive future.
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